1 Baseline Setup
mm total · 5mm steps
mm total · max 1400mm
psi · 0.5 steps
psi · 0.5 steps
Used by the engine to decide whether to bleed or add rear pressure on a throttle-slide diagnosis.
Saved with the setup so you can search the log for what was actually quick.
+ Fine Settings
The small levers. Record them so the log tells you what the kart was actually wearing when it was quick.
Caster is a relative pill setting: + is more caster, − is less. Negative camber leans the top of the wheel inwards.
On a Cadet, softer adds rear bite and harder frees the kart up. Fitting a harder axle to cure a slide is the senior habit that bogs these engines down.
2 Weight & Balance
Corner weights are scale readings with the driver seated, in kit, ready to run — they set your race weight, your left/right, front/rear and diagonal split, and how much ballast (if any) you need to reach the class minimum. Class is set once in Baseline Setup above and every number below follows it.
Placeholder — many karts run slightly rear-biased (low-to-mid 40s% front). Replace with your own target and the ballast guidance below follows it.
Left/Right follow the picture as you view it (screen-left/screen-right), driver seated. Cross Weight is both diagonals — Right-Front + Left-Rear, and Left-Front + Right-Rear — which should be close to even side-to-side. FL/FR/RL/RR are where the corner scale sits, but ballast itself isn't bolted to a wheel — it mounts near the seat, biased to the front/rear and left/right side that needs it, worked out to hit both the class minimum and your front/rear target at once. If ballast is needed, that quarter of the seat lights up on the kart photo and the affected corner shows "+X.Xkg" in place of its percentage.
Ballast height: why it changes the kart
A kart has no differential, so the inside-rear tyre has to be allowed to lift slightly through a corner — that "jacking effect" lets the outside-rear drive the kart through without the back end scrubbing or binding. How much the kart jacks is driven by weight transfer, and weight transfer scales with how high the centre of gravity sits.
Ballast mounted higher raises the centre of gravity, which increases weight transfer and therefore jacking effect for a given corner speed. That can help a kart that feels flat or reluctant to rotate, by freeing the inside rear more readily.
Ballast mounted lower — under the seat, low on the frame rails — keeps the centre of gravity down, reduces weight transfer, and gives a more planted, stable platform. That is the usual starting point once the kart already has enough rotation and just needs the extra kilograms to make weight.
Front-to-rear and left-to-right placement matter too: weight added at the rear loads the driven tyres for traction off slow corners, weight added at the front helps turn-in on a kart that pushes wide, and keeping the cross weight close to even (see the diagram above) keeps the handling consistent from corner to corner.
3 Troubleshooting Wizard
Pick the single worst complaint from the driver. Change one thing at a time, then re-run.
4 Diagnostic Result
Guidance only — always confirm track width, ride height and bodywork against your series' technical regulations before scrutineering.